186. Waren Mill to Craster

It rained incessantly all night, I thought the forecast may have got it wrong and I would be in for a wet day. However,  I need not have worried, as although the roads were flooded in parts, the rain had moved on. I parked  in the car park at Craster and caught the X18 bus back to Waren Mill.

I started walking from Waren Mill down the B1342 towards Bamburgh. About a mile down the road I headed down a green lane past Heather Cottages, through the dunes and onto the shore of Budle Bay. I headed along the beach and around Budle Point. The tide was still out as I passed the lighthouse at Blackrocks Point. The views became dominated by Bamburgh Castle, an iconic and amazing sight. I had previously walked around Bamburgh Castle when I was in the area some years ago. On this occasion headed for the grave of Grace Darling in St. Aidans churchyard. The impressive memorial to Grace had been replaced a number of times over the years, although contrary to popular belief she is not buried in the memorial tomb, but in a simple grave with the rest of her family nearby. I continue down the B1342 road. The Northumberland Coast Path (NCP) diverts inland, I suspect because there is no footpath, although it would be possible, at low tide, to walk along the beach. I soon arrive at Seahouses, still an active fishing port and walk around the harbour wall. I cut across a golf course and head down onto the beach which takes me all the way to the next village along the coast at Beadnell. As I enter the village I saw a large group of people around the village green. They appeared to be picking mushrooms, but on closer inspection they are actually planting bulbs, thousands of them.

The grave of Grace Darling
The memorial to Grace Darling
A rather murky Bamburgh Castle
Looking back at Bamburgh
Sculpture entitled “Rescue” at Seahouses
Heading along the beach to Beadnell

The sun has decided to show its self for a brief while as I again head down to the beach and begin the long sweeping walk around Beadnell Bay. One of the drawbacks of walking along the shore is sometimes you meet a small river or large stream that passes over the sand to the sea. These streams or rivers are generally not very deep, but crossing them could mean getting your feet wet. So the first large stream I came across I simply walked through. I did not mind the wet feet and it saved me walking an extra kilometre to the nearest bridge. After some two miles on the beach I followed the NCP along the shoreline heading for the small hamlet of Low Newton-by-the-Sea. It was quite busy and I could see a number of people strolling along the beach. In the far distance I could make out the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, where some people where making their way to and from. Although a ruin, Dunstanburgh Castle holds a similar prominent position on a volcanic outcrop as Bamburgh. The 13th century castle covers a huge area and had been unoccupied for hundreds of years. Today the castle is owned by the National Trust and administered by English Heritage. I later learned that as a member of the National Trust I could have gained entrance, but this was not explained on the charges board outside of the castle. As I leave Dunstanburgh I join a steady stream of people coming and going back to my destination, Craster. The walking was along grassy fields, cut back by grazing sheep. I enter Craster and head to the Robson smokery where I buy some lovely smoked haddock to take home.

Heading south along Beadnell Bay
Looking back at Beadnell
Heading along Embleton Bay towards Dunstanburgh
Dunstanburgh Castle
Approaching Craster

Distance today = 17 miles
Total distance = 3,269 miles





2 thoughts on “186. Waren Mill to Craster”

  1. I have very happy memories of this walk. Beautiful beaches and the gorgeous Bamburgh Castle. I took time out to visit the castle at Bamburgh (and at Alnwick, and at Lindisfarne) and to take a boat trip out to the Farne Islands, too. Hence I did this walk over more than one day. I was lucky to see lots of puffins on the Farne Islands. Though I do remember that Craster is the only place on my walk I’ve so far had to call a taxi, as the bus was diverted due to a road closure and didn’t serve the stop I waited at (I was unaware, as there was no notice) and it was the last bus of the day.


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