31. Portwrinkle to Talland Bay

Today was quite a short walk as I begin my second day walking along the SWCP in Cornwall. It is a grey overcast and dull day, but quite warm, dry with a stiff breeze, which makes for good walking weather in my view.

I make use of the NT car Park at Hendersick, which is free and a rarity in Cornwall. I then drove my moped along the coast to the small hamlet of Portwrinkle and then began walking west . The coast path here has a series of up and downs, which tested the legs and stamina.

The means of getting to and fro between my walks

I passed through a hamlet called Downderry. It was the place that 8 years ago myself and my wife rented a small cottage above the sea. We took our small Jack Russell, Scampi with us. The cottage was quite small, but cosy, leaving the windows open at night we could hear the waves crashing on the shore below. One day we were walking along the beach and got talking to another gentleman, as we spoke, out of the corner of my eye I could see that Scampi had cocked his leg and was weeing up the chaps Wellington boots! I was mortified and it was quite difficult keeping the conversation going! The three of us were very happy there and the thoughts of my beautiful little dog, long since departed, were with me.

After Downderry, a cliff fall has meant that the footpath has been diverted across the hillside and onto the road. I continued into Looe and crossed the Looe River which divides this small coastal town. I follow the road west out of the town and come to a sculpture sited on rocks above the river. The bronze sculpture is of Nelson – a distinctive ‘one-eyed’ scarred bull grey seal, who for 25 years made Looe harbour and the surrounding area his home.

The next couple of miles is quite gentle walking as I climb back up above Talland Bay and make my wat slightly inland to the car park at Hendersick.

Approaching Talland Bay

Distance today = 11.5 miles
Total distance =   484 miles



30. Plymouth to Portwrinkle

Today I would be saying goodbye to Devon and entering Cornwall on the next leg of the SWCP. I parked at Crafthole, outside of the wonderfully named Finnygook Inn. I caught then caught the bus back to Plymouth.

I begin walking from Cremyll, a small village that sits across the short of water known as The Narrows separating the village form the hustle and bustle of Plymouth. I walk around the delightful Estate of Mount Edgcumbe, passing a lovely Orangery and a host of follies. The path stays in woodland for the next couple of miles, which is a relief as the sun is quite strong. I enter Cawsand Bay and head for the small village of Kingsland and its winding narrow streets. I head out towards Penlee point and catch my last glimpse of Plymouth as I head West.

The Finnygook Inn at Crafthole
looking across to Plymouth from Cremyll
Folly at Mount Edgcumbe
Approaching Kingsand
The Square at Kingsand
The route ahead to Rame Head

I can see my next objective quite easily, as Rame Head is a distinctive landmark for miles around, capped with the small ruined medieval chapel of St. Michael’s. Rame Head offers a grand view both up and down the coast and featured in the recent film Mr Turner. In fact Turner did paint some of the scenery hereabouts. At Tregantle I reach the MOD firing ranges. I heard gun fire for the last couple of miles and as I suspected a red flag was firing, this meant a small diversion up the B3247 road for a few miles. I took the opportunity while a passing a ‘greasy-spoon’ van in a lay-by to myself a burger and enjoy the view back towards Plymouth, which seemed really close. The path soon dropped down the grassy cliffs to Finnygook Lane and Port Wrinkle.

St Michael’s Chapel Rame Head
Tregantle Firing Range – with red flag
Looking back to Plymouth
Approaching Portwrinkle

The walk took about 5.5 hours.

Distance today = 13 miles
Total distance =   472.5 miles